Rates from 0%-36% APR. Payment options through Shop Pay Installments are subject to an eligibility check and are provided by these lending partners: affirm.com/lenders. Options depend on your purchase amount, and a down payment may be required. State notices to consumers: affirm.com/licenses.
The Archive
A spectacular piece of early Karl Lagerfeld-era Chanel, dating to 1989 and featuring one of the most striking details I look for in vintage Chanel: an oversized CC charm suspended from its own leather-woven chain.
Crafted in black quilted lambskin, this structured shoulder tote combines classic Chanel codes with a much less commonly encountered silhouette. Diamond quilting covers both the front and back, while long leather-interwoven chain straps allow the bag to sit comfortably on the shoulder.
And then there is the hardware.
The oversized dangling CC charm and chain are finished in Chanel's coveted 24k gold-plated hardware, giving this bag the bold gold-on-black contrast so closely associated with early Lagerfeld Chanel.
This example is especially desirable because it retains its Chanel box, dust bag and authenticity card—an increasingly special find for a bag dating back more than four decades.
Collectors Notes
Brand: Chanel
Style: Vintage CC Charm Quilted Tote
Year: 1989
Material: Quilted Lambskin Leather
Color: Black
Hardware: 24k Gold-Plated
Feature: Oversized Hanging CC Charm
Closure: Top Zip
Authentication: Entrupy Verified
Includes: Chanel Box, Chanel Dust Bag & Authenticity Card
Measurements:
Height: 8.25"
Length: 11.5"
Depth: 2.75"
Strap Drop: 11.30"
Condition Report
This 1985 Chanel presents in beautiful vintage condition, particularly considering its age.
The black lambskin remains rich with a beautiful sheen, and the diamond quilting is remarkably defined and puffy throughout the front and back. Natural creasing and light surface wear are visible upon close inspection, consistent with vintage lambskin.
The corners and lower edges show light age-related rubbing and wear, with some softening visible at the quilted corner folds. The base shows light surface marks consistent with previous use. The overall structure remains very well preserved.
The leather-interwoven chain straps remain strong and present beautifully. The 24k gold-plated hardware retains a rich, bright gold tone, including the oversized CC charm that serves as the focal point of the bag.
Please review all detailed photographs, as they form an important part of the condition description.
Overall Condition: Excellent Vintage Condition 9/10
Curators Perspective
If you're going to collect vintage Chanel, 1985 is a year worth paying attention to.
Karl Lagerfeld had only recently taken over Chanel, and the house was entering one of the most transformative periods in its modern history. The Chanel codes were becoming bolder—the chains, quilting and interlocking CC were no longer simply details; they became statements.
This bag captures that perfectly.
The oversized hanging CC is what takes it beyond being simply another vintage quilted Chanel. It's jewelry for the bag—substantial, unmistakable and finished in the rich 24k gold plating collectors specifically seek from this era.
I also love that this isn't the obvious Classic Flap. Vintage Chanel totes with distinctive hardware give a collector something recognizable as Chanel while still feeling far less expected.
Add the 1986 date, black lambskin, dramatic gold hardware and surviving original box, dust bag and authenticity card, and you have the combination I continually look for when sourcing: age, condition, provenance and a design detail that separates the piece from everything else.
This isn't just vintage Chanel. It's early Lagerfeld Chanel—and that distinction matters.
