Chanel Vintage Bijoux Quilted Chain Necklace

The Archive

A beautiful example of early Karl Lagerfeld-era Chanel jewelry, this 1986 Bijoux chain necklace captures the house's transformation of traditional jewelry into bold, sculptural fashion statements.

Introduced during a period when Lagerfeld was reimagining Chanel's most recognizable design codes, substantial gold-tone chains became an important part of the house's visual identity. Inspired by the chains associated with Chanel's iconic handbags, these oversized links were designed to be worn as jewelry in their own right.

This particular necklace features an intricate arrangement of alternating oval links, combining smooth, substantial gold-tone links with beautifully sculpted links featuring an engraved crisscross motif reminiscent of Chanel's signature quilting.

The contrasting textures create dimension and movement, while the rich gold-tone finish gives the necklace the unmistakable presence associated with 1980s Chanel jewelry.

Its substantial proportions and architectural chain construction make this a particularly compelling example of the house's early Lagerfeld aesthetic.

The Details

Designer: Chanel Style: Vintage Bijoux Quilted Chain Necklace Era/Year: 1986 Color: Gold Material: Gold-Tone Metal Hardware: Gold-Tone Closure: Hook Clasp Design: Alternating Smooth and Crisscross-Engraved Oval Links Made in: France Hallmark: CHANEL, Made in France, 2 3 Season Marking Authentication: Length 16" Entrupy Verified

Condition Report

Good vintage condition with visible signs of age and previous wear.

The necklace retains its substantial chain construction and rich gold-tone appearance. The sculpted links display fine surface scratches, rubbing and areas of finish variation consistent with vintage jewelry.

Some darkening and patina are visible within the recessed details, along the interior surfaces of the links and around areas of contact between the links. The crisscross engraving remains well defined throughout.

The hook clasp is present and appears intact. The overall chain maintains its shape, with no obvious broken links visible in the photographs.

Curator’s Perspective

One of the most compelling elements of vintage Chanel jewelry is the way Lagerfeld transformed familiar house signatures into statement accessories.

This 1986 Bijoux necklace embodies that approach beautifully. Rather than relying on an oversized CC pendant, the chain itself becomes the design, with sculptural links, quilt-inspired detailing and substantial gold-tone construction.

It is an especially versatile archival piece, equally striking against a simple black neckline or layered over a tailored jacket. For collectors drawn to Chanel's early Lagerfeld years, the necklace offers the distinctive proportions and craftsmanship-inspired detailing that make this era so recognizable.