Chanel Black Vertical Quilted Lambskin Single Flap Bag

The Archive 

This is a beautiful example of late-1980s Karl Lagerfeld-era Chanel, when the house was actively reworking its established codes into bolder, more graphic designs. Instead of Chanel’s familiar diamond quilting, this bag uses elongated vertical channel quilting, giving the lambskin a clean architectural rhythm across both the front and back. The oversized 24K gold-plated CC turnlock and leather-woven chain provide the unmistakable Chanel contrast.

The proportions are especially desirable: compact at just under nine inches wide, yet designed with a long convertible chain that allows it to transition from a doubled shoulder bag to a longer carry. The combination of buttery black lambskin, vertical quilting and richly plated hardware gives this piece a distinctly late-1980s character while remaining remarkably modern. With its circa-1989 dating, this is an early Lagerfeld-era interpretation of the Chanel flap rather than the ubiquitous diamond-quilted Classic.

Collectors Notes 

Designer: Chanel
Style: Vintage Vertical Quilted Single Flap Bag
Era/Year: Circa 1989
Color: Black
Material: Lambskin Leather
Hardware: 24K Gold-Plated
Closure: CC Turnlock
Height: 5.4"
Length: 8.75"
Depth: 2.3"
Strap Drop: 21" maximum
Authentication: Entrupy Verified

Condition Report

Good vintage condition with visible age-related wear. 8.4/10 The black lambskin remains supple with natural creasing, softening and surface variation throughout. There is noticeable rubbing and finish loss along portions of the flap piping and high-contact edges, particularly at the corners and sides. The vertical quilting remains clearly defined with some natural flattening consistent with age.

The leather woven through the chain shows creasing, rubbing and areas of surface wear. The 24K gold-plated hardware remains bright and presents beautifully, with light scratching and normal age-related wear. The original serial sticker is no longer present.

Curators Perspective 

This is the kind of vintage Chanel that feels distinctly archival without sacrificing wearability. The vertical quilting immediately separates it from the Classic Flap most collectors already know, while the black lambskin, substantial gold CC and long chain retain all of the house signatures. Its circa-1989 provenance places it firmly within one of the most recognizable periods of Lagerfeld’s transformation of Chanel, and the smaller proportions make it particularly relevant again today.